Riding in the Rain

If you train in the Northwest, sooner or later you'll have to ride in the rain. You may be dreading your first rainy day ride, but if you have the right equipment, are properly dressed, and take appropriate precautions while riding, cycling in the rain (particularly the light drizzle common in our area) can be a pleasurable experience.

Bicycle

I strongly recommend fenders for your bike if you're riding in the rain, particularly if you're riding in a group. The rear fender is the most important as it prevents water and road grime from splashing up your back and the back of your shorts. It will also reduce or eliminate the rooster tail coming off your back wheel into the face of the rider behind you. The front fender will significantly reduce the amount of water that is splashed on your feet, keeping your socks a lot dryer. Any bike can be fitted with fenders, even if it's an all-out racing bike. Most bike shops, such as Sammamish Valley Cycle or Gregg's Cycle, can fit them to your bike for a modest charge.

There is often more debris on the roads in the winter and it's usually harder to see because of sand, leaves, etc. Heavy-duty tires, such as Specialized Armadilos or Continental Four Seasons, will reduce your chances of flatting and provide slightly better traction. You can also use heavier tubes and/or Mr. Tuffy tire liners.

Clothing

Wearing the right clothes can make the difference between being cold and wet or reasonably comfortable while riding. You're still going to be damp when riding in the rain since there is no such thing as fully breathable, waterproof fabric, but at least you can be warm and damp instead of cold and wet.

Upper Body - Some form of rain jacket is your best bet in the rain. If it's really coming down, you'll want something that is completely waterproof. To be the most comfortable, a jacket with adjustable ventilation is your best bet. Some of the features you should look for are:

• Arm pit vents - a zipper under the arm pits to allow moisture to escape on warm days.

• Back vent - most of the higher quality jackets will have a vent across the back with overlapping fabric to prevent rain from getting in.

• Fleece collar - you want a collar that is high enough and snug enough to prevent rain from dripping down, but that's comfortable against your skin.

• Open cuffs - a jacket with open cuffs that can be synched down can provide a lot of extra ventilation.

• Flexible front closure - either a double zipper or velcro front closures can make it easier to provide front ventilation while keeping you dry on light rain days.

The Burley Rain Rider jacket is an excellent choice that meets the above criteria.

For overcast days when rain is a possibility, it's a great idea to bring a thin jacket that you can roll up and put in the back of your jersey or hydration pack. The Rainshield jackets, at around $30, are a good inexpensive choice. If you want something a little higher quality, Craft or Pearl Izumi make jackets which are the yellow-lime green color that's very easy to see. These should be available at your local bike shop.

For the misty rain that we often get around the Northwest, another jacket that is worth considering is the Assos Clima Micro jacket. This is a lightweight shell made of a fiber that swells when it gets wet to become waterproof (or at least very water resistant), but when the rain stops, the fibers shrink so the jacket is very breathable. Unfortunately, it's fairly expensive (around $200) and the fabric is fairly delicate. This jacket is available at Sammamish Valley Cycle.

Lower Body - there are waterproof rain pants available, but you'll probably be happier with breathable tights that pull over your bike shorts. This will keep your leg muscles from getting too warm and provide plenty of protection. Tights with wind and water resistant panels on the front will ensure your legs stay plenty warm on colder days while still remaining comfortable when the temperatures get up in the 50's. Mountain Equipment Co-Op, Pearl Izumi (AmFib tights) and others make suitable choices.

Feet - start with wool socks such as DeFeet Woolie Boolie (available at Sammamish Valley Cycle) since they'll stay warm even if they get wet. You might also consider putting on a waterproof or Goretex sock over the wool socks, but this might make your feet too sweaty and/or add too much bulk in your cycling shoes. Shoe covers (also called booties) will keep your shoes and socks dryer and your feet warmer. Neoprene booties are probably the warmest, but you may want something a little lighter.

Hands - look for long-finger insulated gloves with a Goretex cover, such as the Pearl Izumi AmFib gloves. Fleece or wool insulation works well since it will still keep your fingers warm when it gets wet. If your fingers are particularly susceptible to the cold, consider wool gloves with Goretex lobster over mitts such as those available from Outdoor Research or Assos.

Head - an insulated head band, such as the Assos winter headband, works well to keep you warm on most cool days. If it's really cold, use a fleece skull cap that comes down over your ears. These are designed to be thin enough to go under your helmet, but still keep your head warm. If it's raining hard, you can use a helmet cover, but this is generally not necessary in the northwest.

Riding

Road surfaces that provide adequate traction when it's dry can be very hazardous when wet. Here are some surfaces to be cautious of:

• Railroad tracks - these are hazardous under any conditions but can be particularly dangerous when wet. Approach them at a right angle if at all possible, at a moderate speed (10-15mph). You want your momentum to carry you over, but don't want to be going so fast that you might loose control over the rough surface. Make sure your bike is vertical - if you're leaning at all, your wheels can easily slip on the rails.

• Metal surfaces - metal surfaces such as sewer access covers, storm drains and metal plates can be extremely treacherous when wet. Try hard to avoid riding over them. If you have to ride over them, follow the same precautions as riding over railroad tracks.

• Wood bridges and paths - many of the bike paths in our area have wooded bridges or ramps. When they get wet, particularly if it's been raining for several days, they can develop a coat of algae which is very slippery. A couple years ago, two TNT participants fell when going around a bend on a wooden bike path - one broke her collarbone and was unable to ride in the team event. If in doubt, get off your bike and walk across.

• Puddles - try to avoid riding through standing water. Puddles occasionally obscure pot holes which could cause a crash or damage your bike.

• Leaves and debris - In the winter and spring, a lot of debris collects on the road shoulders in our area. Wet leaves, twigs, paper, etc., can be quite slippery, particularly if you're going uphill or standing on your pedals. Be cautious when you can't see the pavement under your tires and steer away from thick beds of leaves.

• Painted lines - Even the painted lines on separating the shoulder can be slippery when they get wet, particularly if they are reasonably fresh. Be cautious when riding on or across these lines and try not to lean your bike as you're doing so.

Take descents more slowly when the roads are wet. Lightly tap your brakes every so often to dry the rims and to make sure your brakes will work when you need them. Keep in mind that your bike will take longer to stop than when its dry, so brake early.

Bike Maintenance

Most of the materials on a modern bicycle will not rust, so you don't have to be too worried about riding in the rain. The two key exceptions are the chain and the cassette (gears on the back wheel). To avoid rust, these should be lubricated with a good chain lube and then wiped dry at the end of the ride. If you've got a steel frame, it's also a good idea to wipe down the frame and periodically check to make sure any nicks in the paint are touched up.

In wet weather, a lot of road grit gets kicked up onto your bike. If you've purchased your bike in the last several years, chances are all the bearings are well sealed from the elements but it's a good idea to clean your bike thoroughly at least every few weeks and have it checked out by a bike mechanic at the end of the rainy season.

The one area you have to be a little more diligent about is the brakes. Dirt and sand will collect on the brake pads as you ride, then get squeezed against the brake surfaces of your rims. Over time, this can damage the rims resulting in less effective braking. After each ride in the rain, you should spray some water on your brakes and pads and wipe the braking surfaces of the rims clean. If you use a hose, make sure you avoid spraying the wheel hubs and bottom bracket (the part of the frame the crank connects through). Although the bearings in these areas are reasonably well sealed, you don't want to risk driving grit into them from high water pressure. If you want to clean these areas, it's best to do so with a damp cloth. You can use a little dish detergent in water to cut through the grit, but make sure you use a little chain lube or WD40 around these areas when your done as this will help repel water and grit the next time you ride in the rain.

If the road is really gritty (such as after the roads are sanded due to a snow storm), you might want to occasionally spray water from your water bottle onto the brake pads to rinse some of the grit off. But only do this if you have plenty of water - it's more important to stay hydrated than to rinse off your brakes. Also, don't use a sports drink for this purpose - the sugar is sure to gum up your brakes and do more harm than good.

Check your brake pads regularly. They will wear much faster when riding in the rain. Replacement pads are inexpensive and easy to replace, so err on the side of caution and replace them if they look like they're getting too worn.

Ask your coaches if you have any questions or concerns.